Adepticon 2026 Paint and Take Event - Rocker Girl
Guide by EllmoPaints
This guide walks you through five simple steps for painting Monster Fight Club’s Cyberpunk Rocker Girl using paints from the Bear Cavalry range. It emphasizes beginner-friendly techniques such as layering and drybrushing, while keeping paint mixing to a minimum so you can get started quickly and confidently. Because this miniature’s most striking features are its broad areas of skin and bold hair, those elements will receive the most attention throughout the guide. At the start of each step, you’ll find a list of the new paints to add to your palette, letting you build your color selection gradually as you go.
Step 1
Paints: Seven Pillars of Wisdom, Freezing Moon, Burnt Offering, Ultimate Cup of Coffee

To begin, we will apply simple base coats to block in the main areas of the miniature using a larger brush. Use two or more thin coats of paint, allowing each layer to dry before applying the next, to build up smooth, solid coverage. In general, it is easiest to paint the deeper, more recessed areas first, then work outward to the more exposed surfaces, since any accidental mistakes on raised areas can be covered more easily afterward.
Step 2
Paints: Sunburned Skin, Grey Goose, Hell Bent for Leather, Blood Red Skies, Pyrrhic Dawn, Hunter’s Quiver

Next we will start layering up the skin to make that look as smooth as possible while finishing base coating the rest of the miniature. Layering adds depth and dimension by applying a lighter color over the base coat while still allowing some of the darker underlying color to remain visible. As a general rule, each new layer should cover about 75% of the layer beneath it. We are also going to drybrush the surface of the base by loading a brush with paint, wiping most of it off on a paper towel, and then lightly brushing it across the surface so only the raised texture picks up any paint. As we continue layering the rest of the miniature, some transitions will be softened by using a simple mix of two paints. Whenever this guide calls for a paint mix, use roughly equal parts of each color for an easy 1:1 blend. To do this, place a brushful of the first color on your palette, add a similar amount of the second, and mix them together.
Step 3
Paints: Pale Rider, Pale Blue Eyes, Pure Filth

At this stage we are mainly layering up brighter colors all over different parts of the miniature. As always, each new layer should cover a smaller area than the one before so that previous layers remain partially visible and create a smooth transition. When painting the red of the shirt it is best to use the side of the brush rather than the tip most of the time so that you only hit the most raised surface and not the skin or bra underneath.
Step 4
Paints: The White Room

This is our final major step, where we add highlights to the miniature. Highlights work much like layers, but instead of covering broader areas, they are applied only to the most raised edges and upper-facing surfaces where light would naturally catch. On especially sharp edges, a simple way to apply them is to run the side of your brush along the edge rather than using the tip, which helps create a cleaner and more consistent line. You can also choose to add the white of the eyes to the miniature by dotting it in here if you are feeling confident.
Step 5
Paints: Mindcrime Magenta

This final step is entirely optional and is meant to add a little extra polish if you are feeling confident with your brush control. You can add tiny dots of white on the hair and the glowing effects to make them gleam, but use this sparingly as too many will make these elements look flat. You can also sharpen the definition between different materials by carefully lining a darker shadow color where two surfaces meet. This is especially useful around the face where it meets the hair, and that same shadow color can be used beneath the nose, under the brow, between the lips, and under the chin to add a bit more depth. If you need to tidy up the eyes after adding the white and black dots, it is usually best to do this with the original base color or the same shadow tone. Finally we can add a hint of makeup to the cheeks, eyes, and lips by adding an extra thin touch of Mindcrime Magenta.
Adepticon 2026 Paint and Take Event - Dutiful Soldier

This guide takes you through five simple steps for painting Monster Fight Club’s Dutiful Soldier from The Witcher miniature line using paints from Bear Cavalry. It emphasizes beginner-friendly techniques such as layering and drybrushing, while keeping paint mixing to a minimum so painters of any skill level can jump right in. The miniature’s main visual features are its different armor colors and bright metallic trim, so those areas will receive the most attention throughout the guide. At the start of each step, you’ll find a list of the new paints to add to your palette, letting you build your color selection gradually as you go.
Step 1
Paints: Seven Pillars of Wisdom, Burnt Offering, Ultimate Cup of Coffee, Hell Bent for Leather

To begin, we will apply simple base coats to block in the main areas of the miniature using a larger brush. Use two or more thin coats of paint, allowing each layer to dry before applying the next, to build up smooth, solid coverage. In general, it is easiest to paint the deeper, more recessed areas first, then work outward to the more exposed surfaces, since any accidental mistakes on raised areas can be covered more easily afterward.
Step 2
Paints: Sunburned Skin, Hunter’s Quiver, Grey Goose

Next, we will begin layering the areas of the miniature that will need smoother color transitions, while also finishing any remaining base-coated sections. Layering adds depth and dimension by applying a lighter color over the base coat while still allowing some of the darker underlying color to remain visible. As a general rule, each new layer should cover about 75% of the layer beneath it. Keep your paint thin and allow each coat to dry fully before applying the next.
Step 3
Paints: Freezing Moon, Pale Rider, The White Room, Pure Filth

At this stage, we will switch to a few different brushes and introduce a small amount of paint mixing. We’ll begin by drybrushing the miniature’s base: load a dry brush with paint, wipe most of it off on a paper towel, then lightly brush it across the textured surface so the color catches only the raised areas while leaving the darker color underneath visible. As we continue layering the rest of the miniature, some transitions will be softened by using a simple mix of two paints. Whenever this guide calls for a paint mix, use roughly equal parts of each color for an easy 1:1 blend. To do this, place a brushful of the first color on your palette, add a similar amount of the second, and mix them together. As always, each new layer should cover a smaller area than the one before it so the previous layers remain partially visible and create a smooth transition. You may notice that the layers of the shining metal areas jump rather drastically, this is intentional to make them appear more shiny at the end.
Step 4
Paints: Pale Blue Eyes

This is our final major step, where we add highlights to the miniature. Highlights work much like layers, but instead of covering broader areas, they are applied only to the most raised edges and upper-facing surfaces where light would naturally catch. On especially sharp edges, a simple way to apply them is to run the side of your brush along the edge rather than using the tip, which helps create a cleaner and more consistent line. You can also choose to add the white of the eyes to the miniature by dotting it in here if you are feeling confident.
Step 5

This final step is entirely optional and is meant to add a little extra polish if you are feeling confident with your brush control. At this stage, you can place tiny dots of white on the silver areas to create a bright gleam, but use them sparingly since too much will make the metal look flat. You can also sharpen the definition between different materials by carefully lining a darker shadow color where two surfaces meet. This is especially useful around the face where it meets the helmet, and that same shadow color can be used beneath the nose, under the brow, and between the lips to add a bit more depth. If you need to tidy up the eyes after adding the white and black dots, it is usually best to do this with the original base color or the same shadow tone. Finally, black armor can be one of the hardest surfaces to blend smoothly, so this is a good stage to refine those transitions with a few extra thin layers, or with glazing if you are comfortable using that technique.