We're excited about our highly-detailed, high-quality range of miniatures and hope you are too!
Monster Fight Club miniatures are made from durable plastic with a little flex to protect them during transport and gaming. Since they may be a little different than some of the other plastic miniatures you may have or be familiar with, we thought we'd pass along a few tips to you!
General Assembly and Modeling Tips
- You need to use super glue to assemble multi-part models and to glue them to their bases.
- Polystyrene "plastic" glue does not work on our models.
- To remove flashing and mold lines use a sharp hobby knife. You can use the blade to scrape the mold lines or to carefully cut them off.
- Using a file, as you might with metal miniatures will not work well.
Recommended Tools
- A cutting mat is used to protect your table surface from cuts, scratches, and dreaded glue spills.
- Craft knives are used to remove mold lines and trim away any excess flash that may remain on the model from the manufacturing process.
- While we do not explicitly recommend the use of files on our models, some fine grits of sanding sticks when used carefully can assist in the removal of mold lines.
- Clippers are typically not needed to assemble our miniatures. However, they are the easiest way to clip off the basing pegs from the bottom of the model if you are choosing to glue the model to the base.
- A pin vise is the easiest way to create holes in your base when using base pegs for basing. Typically, our multi-part models do not require any pinning. The components are light enough to remain secure with super glue only.
- Super glue is recommended for all assembly of Monster Fight Club models.
Basing Your Models
Your Monster Fight Club miniatures have basing pegs under each foot. The bases provided with your miniature have four possible peg holes, which you can see under the base. You can easily test which peg holes are the correct ones by fitting your miniature to the base upside down, as pictured.
You can use a sharp hobby knife (carefully!) or a hobby drill with a 3mm bit to hollow out the holes. (We do not recommend a power drill – it is very easy to remove more material than intended.)
You can also cut off one or more of the pegs using clippers, if you want to glue the model's feet flat to the base. However, the pegs will fasten the model to the base more securely and add stability to the figure.
To add texture to your bases we recommend using glue and sand. There is also a wide variety of base texturing materials available on the market. You can also spend less time basing and more time playing by using a full-color Monster Scenic Base!
Priming and Painting
We recommend priming your models before painting.
There are lots of great hobby-shop primers out there. Vallejo, Army Painter, Citadel, etc. are all good, or you can use primer from your local hardware store. In the US, we like Rust-Oleum’s “2X Ultracover Paint+Primer.”
Airbrush primers also work well and can be brushed on if you don’t have an airbrush. Airbrush primers are great if it’s raining, humid, cold, or you don’t have a good spot to spray-paint outdoors. Vallejo’s Airbrush "Surface Primer" and Badger’s “Stynylrez” primers are both good.
The slight flexibility of Monster Fight Club models makes them a great match for acrylic paints, which are also very flexible. Most brands of hobby paints are acrylic (Citadel, Vallejo, Pro Acryl, Formula P3, etc). Anything you can wash off with water is acrylic. If you’re using textured paints on your bases, we recommend applying them after priming the base. The textured paint sticks better to primer than bare plastic.
*Products shown in this article are for illustration purposes only and are not meant as a specific endorsement by Monster Fight Club.